"I haven't been everywhere, but it's on my list." — Susan Sontag


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From St. Petersburg

Hey everyone!  We’re having such a great time that I haven’t had much time to write.  I’ll update you all on St. Petersburg with this email and then send another on Helsinki.  As of today, we are in Amsterdam but are just starting to see the city – I’ll send that one later on in the week.

On Saturday, Michelle and I took the train from Moscow to St. Petersburg. The trip was a nice break from flying-  the whole process much easier with no check-in, security, limits to luggage, safety speeches, etc. We waited about 15 min on the platform and then boarded our car. The seats were more roomy than on an airplane and we slept some, read and ate dinner in the dining car. The dining car seemed like a throwback to a 50’s diner.  It was about a 5 1/2 hour ride, and then we arrived into the middle of the city in St. Petersburg. Even though it was 10:00 p.m., it was still light outside.

We had limited directions to our hostel (that’s right, hostel –  not hotel) and found ourselves walking in circles for a bit (carrying luggage) trying to figure out where to go. It was very frustrating b/c we had no map, nothing written in Russian for us to be able to ask for directions and the street signs (if they existed) were all in Cyrillic which looks like nothing we know. The funny part was that our hostel was literally just around the block from the train station!  But eventually through trial and error and a very helpful lady in a bar with a guidebook, we found the brown door that would lead to our room.

Hostel Entrance – unfortunately the inside matched the outside

The hostel was clean and safe – but you may disagree after looking at the pictures.  We decided we wouldn’t send the pictures until after we left safely because we knew you all would worry!  It seems like youth camp revisited.  It was quite the adventure for two hotel snobs.  Mr. Tony (Michelle’s dad) said he thought the hostel sounded like my idea and that Michelle should just slap me!

We both brought pillow cases but the pillows are big and square so we just laid our cases across them to act as protection for our heads. I had to sleep with the eye mask I took from the Delta flight to keep the light out – very attractive!  The mattress springs are just lovely AND we didn’t have any hot water on the first day.  Needless to say, the experience have been very interesting and one we will never forget.

The good thing is the hostel is right in the center of town. When we checked in the lady at the “reception desk” said it was museum night and that all the museums were open.  I asked if the Hermitage was open too – that’s the most famous museum.  She said yes so we left the hotel at 11pm to check it out only to find out it was closed.  Oh well – the city was absolutely beautiful at night and so different than Moscow. It is definitely a “night” town because the streets are so busy with cars and people into the morning hours.

On Sunday morning we ventured out to take the Metro by ourselves for the first time so we could purchase our tickets for Finland. It may seem easy but there are no words in English – only Cyrillic so we tried to go with numbers and colors. We managed to make it happen with only one mix-up and actually found our way very well. We happened to talk to these two girls who spoke limited English – they were going to the same stop we were, so we followed them. They were returning from a month long trip back from Finland!

We walked a million miles all around the city. We saw Peter and Paul’s fortress, the Summer Gardens, the Cathedral of the Spilled Blood, the outside of the Russian Museum, the Kazan Cathedral, Alexandrovskiy Gardens, St. Issac’s Cathedral and much more in between.

Monday morning, before we left for Helsinki, we had planned to go to the Hermitage again.  We got there only to find out it was closed again.  Apparently it is closed on Mondays.  It was disappointing to go to St. Petersburg and not see the Hermitage but I guess that gives us a reason to return.

Hope you are all doing great!


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Moscow Update

St. Basil’s Cathedral

Hi Everyone!

Moscow is great and we’ve had some busy days.  One strange thing here is that every car can be a taxi. If you want a ride you just wave to every car that passes.  If someone stops, then you negotiate your fare.  Kind of like paid hitch hiking.

Thursday morning I went to the tradeshow with Michelle, and after lunch we met our unofficial tour guides.  One of Michelle’s colleagues knows a guy in Moscow and he arranged for son of his friend to take us around.  We were debating on if we should go with them on Thursday or Friday, but when we got back from lunch the guy had dropped his son and a friend of his off at the booth so Thursday it was!

Having them show us around was fabulous!  They were both 20, spoke excellent English, and knew tons about Russian history.  We were hoping they didn’t ask us that much about American history – I’m sure they could have stumped us!   Their names were Kirill and Stas – Kirill was in the linguistic school and Stas was an excellent photographer.  He took tons of photos and is going to send them to us.

First we took the metro to Novodevichy monastery/cemetery.  The metro is unbelievable – the stations are works of art and look like museums.  It’s strange to the that one of the prettiest places in Moscow is underground.  The metro can also hold entire city of Moscow in case there is an attack on the city.

Metro – Absolutely Beautiful!

Novodevichy monastery is for women only and was pretty – our tour guides, Kirill and Stas had never been there before.  I really wanted to go to the cemetery – Jonathan, my boss, raved about it.  When we got there they were closing so we walked away.  Before we got too far, the security guard came up and said for 100 rubles each he would let us in.  We had to go into a corner to pay him  – apparently that’s pretty common.

The cemetery was amazing – each headstone was elaborate.  Mom, one even had a math equation on it (see attached picture!)  Famous Soviet leaders, artists, scientists, and others are buried here and each headstone told the story of who the person was.

After that, we walked and walked and walked and walked.  It was great to see all of the side streets and learn about everything on the way to the Cathedral of Christ the Savior.  I never saw a single house in Moscow.  It’s the most expensive city in the world (why am I here??)  Everyone lives in flats (apartments) and then they have a dasha which is a house in the country that you build yourself (typically).

It was interesting to get Kirill and Stas’s point of view on the change from the Soviet Union to current day Russia.  They were both young when it happened but said their parents never speak badly of the way things were and that they felt education was much better then.

Along the way I spotted a Coca-Cola Light (diet coke) at a stand (hadn’t seen one yet).  I pointed to it, and asked Kirill, how do I say that.  He said “Coca Cola Light.”  Everyone got a good laugh and now I know I can order at least one thing in Russian!

We finally stopped and had dinner at a great Italian restaurant that was near Kirill’s school  They were both so excited that we bought them two beers! We were in much need of a break after hours of walking.  We then went to Cathedral of Christ the Savior and then to the Red Square.  The architect who built St. Basil’s cathedral was asked if he could do it again and he said yes.  The government didn’t want him to replicate it so they gouged out his eyes – interesting fact.

This morning Michelle worked and I sat at Starbucks and read.  It rained most of the afternoon.  Tonight we went to the opera – interesting experience.   The driver dropped us off at a busy intersection, and I kept trying to find someone who spoke English so we would know where to go.  We crossed the same street several times following different directions but finally found it.  We don’t have a clue what it was about and dozed off in a few parts but were glad we went.

Tomorrow we are going shopping and then headed to St. Petersburg in the afternoon.  We still don’t have a train ticket to Helsinki (the Delta lady somehow didn’t book my ticket) but are hoping to get one there.  After tonight, it’s no more comfy beds and our own bathroom.  We are staying in hostels and will be wearing shower shoes – I’m sure we will meet some interesting characters!

Below are some more photos of Moscow!


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I arrived!

Hi All!

I made it to Moscow safely!

The trip started out a little rough.  I had an issue when I got to the airport in Atlanta and tried to get my boarding pass.  For Russia you have to have a visa and my visa says I have to be out of the country by May 19th.  My Delta flight is out of Amsterdam on May 23 – I’m taking a train out of Russia on May 18th to Helsinki.  I was going to get my train ticket when I got to Russia but apparently I had to have proof I was leaving by train before they would give me my boarding pass.  After about an hour at the ticket counter, the Delta lady finally booked my train ticket for me.  Otherwise, I wouldn’t have been able to go.

I exchanged $300 to rubles at the airport so I would have some local money when I landed.  The guy at the exchange counter said he only had 100 bills and nothing larger.  I said that was fine – when I got a stack full of money, I realized I just got $300 in essentially $3 bills.  Each $1 is 30 rubles – my wallet is really fat!

The flight was about 11 hrs and there were probably 20 kids under the age of 3 on the flight.  It was noisy!  When we landed in Moscow, they had people come on board the plan to check for people with the swine flu.  The “inspectors” were in yellow vests and were wearing masks.  They had therrmal cameras and scanned everyone to get their temperature.  Michelle just had this on her flight over so I was expecting it but it was still strange.

Michelle arranged for a car to pick me up so getting from the airport to the hotel was a breeze.  The traffic was unreal – it put Atlanta traffic to shame.  On the way to the hotel, we passed an Ikea, a Gap, a Sephora, and a ton of car dealerships – looked like home!

I’m at the hotel now and just got up from a 3 hour nap.  Michelle’s back from work and we are going to dinner with some of her co-workers.  I think we are going to Cafe Pushkin – it’s supposed to be the best restaurant in Russia and is in the Red Square.  It’s the one restaurant that I wanted to go to so I’m excited it’s our first stop!

I’ll email more later and will send pictures too.

Love,

Emily